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Portugal - The Algarve
27 October - 4 November 2005
James J. Packer
This report has been designed to be read in conjunction with my previous report of a trip from 3-17 August 2004. This previous report can be found HERE.
Introduction
As the school half term in Somerset was two weeks in 2005; Emma, my wife (a teacher), and I decided to go back to The Algarve. I'm not a fan of re-visiting previous holiday destinations but the prospect of a range of different bird species and cost meant that this was an attractive proposition. As with the August trip, I was certainly not disappointed.
I'm not sure how much the trip cost, as we booked EasyJet tickets well in advance, a Holiday Autos Hire Car, and an apartment at The Old Village Apartments in Vilamoura found on the internet. All arrangements worked fine, except for terrible directions to the apartment in The Old Village. We nearly ended up sleeping in the car because we couldn't find the key, which was supposed to be left under the mat. After checking under the doormats of about a dozen random apartments, we eventually found it with great relief.
The Old Village Apartments were OK. We had 12 BC Church Square, two floors and a roof terrace. It had two bedrooms, but only two of us were on the trip, so if we'd gone with two others the whole trip would have been even cheaper. The Old Village has a couple of nice bars and an excellent restaurant, Casa Do Largo. Not particularly good for birding the grounds, but near the central park with loads of Azure-winged Magpies and other Pine woodland species and Sardinian Warbler, Hoopoe and Hummingbird Hawkmoth in the gardens.
Vilamoura is a good base, being fairly central in The Algarve, though it is most certainly not typically Portugese. The whole town is a purpose built resort, although this is not as terrible as it sounds. The streets are very clean, except for a fair amount of graffiti (sorry, street art) and a lot of the town is built around Pine woodlands. Most of the green areas are gold courses, which are out of bounds unless you're a golfer, but looking into them with a pair of bins' is OK, you just might get some funny looks (hey, you're a birder - no problem then?). I hated the marina, but Emma likes it!
The western edge of Vilamoura is flanked by an area of marshland, though sadly this is becoming encroached by development. Even between my visits in August 2004 and October 2005 it was clear that this area is threatened. The Laguna and other golf courses have already been built on much of the marsh. Apparently Vilamoura has won some Environmental Awards, but this all seems a bit of a con. You might also find reference to an Environmental Park within the marshland with hides - no more, it's gone! [update - apparantly it is still there? If you have been recently, can you let me know how to get to it because I'm obvously looking in the wrong place!] What's left has some excellent birds, but for how long is debatable.
Itinery
27 October - Arrive in the dark
28 October - Vilamoura marshes; Quinta de Lago
29 October - Pera Marsh; Tavira Salt Pans; Pedras Del Ray; Barril Beach; Vilamoura marshes
30 October - Sagres area; Alvor Estuary; Pera Marsh
31 October - Castro Verde area; Vilamoura marshes
1 November - Vilamoura marshes
2 November - Quinta de Marim (HQ of Ria Formosa); Tavira Saltpans; Pedras del Ray
3 November - Pera Marsh; Vilamoura marshes
4 November - Quinta de Lago; Ludo Farm; Fly home.
My previous report and the Carlson and Gosney guides give directions to most of the sites except Pera Marsh and Vilamoura [update: directions to Pera Marsh (Lagos dos Salgados) are in Carlson but they are so crap that I didn't even realise they were there] - both of which had excellent birds. To find Pera Marsh, follow the following directions I nicked from another report (thanks!):
"from N125 east of Alcantarilha at traffic light junction, take road to Armação de Pêra and almost immediately take a minor road left across a narrow bridge. Over the bridge veer right (straight on goes into Pêra) and follow this road around the outskirts of the town, going up a slight incline to an "island" at the top of the rise (circular building in fields to the right) and turn right (main road carries on to Albufeira) taking the small road down to the beach. This road and Pera Marsh are to the west of the golf course - Salgardos. The minor road eventually deteriorates into a track to the main beach car park. Tracks to the left, off this main track go right to the waters edge."
The following map might help you track down some good areas in Vilamoura:
Systematic List
Great Crested Grebe
At Quinta de Lago and Vilamoura.
Little Grebe
Probably up to 100 at Pera Marsh before it was drained. Others on most ponds.
Gannet
A few past Vilamoura and Sagres
Cormorant
Common at many sites
Little Bittern
A brief view of a probable male at Quinta de Lago.
Squacco Heron
One at Pera Marsh, seen in flight several times at the back of the marsh, adjacent to the gold course.
Cattle Egret
Common and widespread.
Little Egret
Common and widespread.
Little Egret x Western Reef Heron
In August 2004 I found a bird at Tavira which I put down as a dark morph Little Egret. It clearly wasn't a Western Reef Heron on bare part structure. Photos of it can be seen in the trip report. This year in almost exactly the same place at Tavira was a bird that looked a lot more like a Western Reef Heron, being darker and more uniform. However, it just wasn't quite right, bill being all dark grey and relatively slim. I can only assume that this bird, and probably last years too, is a hybrid Western Reef Heron x Little Egret. Queries have recently been raised whether there's such a thing as a dark morph Little Egret - all these birds may be hybrids. Can the fact that these birds were seen in exactly the same place two years running suggest that maybe nearby there's a regular breeding pair of Western Reef Heron x Little Egret? Comments welcome.
Grey Heron
Common and widespread.
White Stork
Far less abundant than in the summer, but small numbers over a wide area. Four birds were feeding in the park in the middle of Vilamoura throughout.
Glossy Ibis
One at Quinta de Lago.
Spoonbill
Large numbers at Pera Marsh and Tavira saltpans, with at least 90 at Tavira.
Greater Flamingo
At Pera Marsh, Tavira and Ludo Farm. Most, about 50 at Pera.
Wigeon
Small numbers on RF and Quinta de Marim
Mallard
Common.
Gadwall
Common and abundant at freshwater pools
Teal
Small numbers on RF in various places
Pintail
Single at Quinta de Lago and up to ten at Pera Marsh
Shoveler
Common at freshwater pools
Pochard
Small numbers at freshwater pools
Tufted Duck
Small numbers at freshwater pools
Black-shouldered Kite
Single at Vilamoura marshes throughout. Often perched in a preferred tree between Super Mini Golf and the 'beach pool'. One near Castro Verde in exactly the same tree as one was seen in August 2004!
Marsh Harrier
At least 3-4 at Vilamoura throughout and 1 or 2 at Tavira, Quinta de Lago, Quinta de Marim and Pera.
Common Buzzard
Small numbers at Sagres and Castro Verde
Booted Eagle
Singles at Vilmoura and on the N125 west of here.
Osprey
One over Pera Marsh appeared to fly out to sea.
Kestrel
Singles at several locations.
Red-legged Partridge
Abundant at Castro Verde and a small party at Vilamoura.
Water Rail
Only heard at Vilamoura.
Moorhen
Common
Coot
Abundant at all freshwater pools. Checked for Red-knobs but failed.
Purple Gallinule
Easy peasy at Vilamoura marsh pools and Laguna Golf Course, Pera Marsh (probably at least 10) and Quinta de Lago and Marim.
Great Bustard
A single by the reservoir near Castro Verde (which was dry) and a group of at least 10m from the old road adjacent to the fast road between CV and Entradas.
Little Bustard
Frustrating view of one near the road Castro Verde but couldn't stop!
Oystercatcher
Small numbers on the RF
Black-winged Stilt
Common and abundant on the RF and Pera Marsh
Avocet
Single at Pera Marsh and hundreds at Tavria Salt Pans.
Ringed Plover
Common all over RF
Kentish Plover
Common RF
Grey Plover
Common RF
Turnstone
Small groups on RF and most beaches
Grey Phalarope
One 1st winter at the channel at the entrance to Pera Marsh.
Sanderling
Small groups on most beaches.
Curlew Sandpiper
Small numbers at Tavira Salt Pans
Dunlin
Small numbers at Tavira
Little Stint
Small numbers at Tavira
Curlew
Singles over RF
Whimbrel
Heard at Pedras del Ray
Black-tailed Godwit
Hundreds, if not thousands at Tavira Salt Pans
Bar-tailed Godwit
Only at RF near Quinta de Lago
Redshank
Small numbers over all marshes
Greenshank
One of two at Tavira and RF
Wood Sandpiper
One at Pera Marsh
Green Sandpiper
Only two at Pera Marsh
Common Sandpiper
Singles at many freshwater pools and marshes
Audouin's Gull
15-20 at Tavira Salt Pans in exactly the same roosting place as August 2004. Take the track to the salt pans between St Lucia and Tavira, about 100 metres before the gate look across the salt pans towards Tavira at the gulls in the distance stood on top the banks. They're Audouin's!
Mediterranean Gull
Common. Most at Pera Marsh where there was up to 30.
Black-headed Gull
Common and abundant.
Yellow-legged Gull
Common
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Common
Caspian Tern
Three of four at Tavira Saltpans and one at Alvor Estuary
Sandwich Tern
Regular in small numbers at most coastal areas and wetlands
Common Tern
One at Vilamoura. On the nets.
Little Tern
Only five at Tavira.
White-winged Black Tern
One at Pera Marsh on 30/10/05. This species is a Portugese rarity!
Rock Dove
Several on the cliffs at Carveiro
Collared Dove
Common
Barn Owl
One seen near Old Village Apartments in street lights (see last year!)
Little Owl
Several around Castro Verde
Kingfisher
One or two at most freshwater
Hoopoe
One of two at many locations, including singing at Old Village and Pera Marsh
Wryneck
One heard calling near Pera Marsh
Calandra Lark
At least one near the reservoir, Castro Verde (see Gosney)
Skylark
Hundreds, Sagres
Crested Lark
Common and adundant
Thekla Lark
I really couldn't be bothered after a while.
Red-rumped Swallow
One or two in an amazing little hirundine flock at Pera Marsh
Crag Martin
One or two in an amazing little hirundine flock at Pera Marsh. Particularly appreciated!
Barn Swallow
One or two in an amazing little hirundine flock at Pera Marsh
House Martin
One or two in an amazing little hirundine flock at Pera Marsh
Meadow Pipit
Common especially near wetlands
Water Pipit
One on the golf course near Quinta de Lago
Grey Wagtail
Singles scattered over many places
White Wagtail
Common at wetlands
Bluethroat
At least three, including a singing male, along the silly railway at Pedras del Ray. Out in the open often sitting on the railway tracks. Also at Alvor.
Black Redstart
2-3 at Sagres and one at Castro Verde
Stonechat
Common everywhere
Black-eared Wheatear
One near Sagres
Blackbird
Common at Vilamoura
Fan-tailed Warbler (Zitting Cisticola)
Common
Reed Warbler
One seen well at Quinta de Marim
Cetti's Warbler
Common at wetlands
Dartford Warbler
Two at Tavira saltpans
Blackcap
Only one or two at Alvor
Sardinian Warbler
Common and abundant
Chiffchaff
Common and abundant
Willow Warbler
One near Quinta de Lago
Blue Tit
Singles in a couple of coastal resort areas
Great Tit
Singles in a couple of town areas
Penduline Tit
One at Vilamoura marshes
Southern Grey Shrike
Singles at Pera Marsh and Quinta de Marim and three or four near Castro Verde
Spotless Starling
Much more common than in the summer. Small flocks of up to fifty coming into Vilamoura marshes at dusk. Many other small groups.
Jay
Several at inland Pine woods
Azure-winged Magpie
Common and abundant, especially in Vilamoura
Chough
About 30 in a field near Sagres
Jackdaw
Small numbers widespread
Carrion Crow
At Sagres and Castro Verde
House Sparrow
Common and very abundant
Spanish Sparrow
Small numbers at Tavira saltpans, Alvor Estuary and in storks nests at Entradas and Quinta de Marim
Common Waxbill
Common, especially Vilamoura and RF
Serin
Small numbers in many places
Chaffinch
Small numbers in Pine woods
Greenfinch
Small numbers in many places
Goldfinch
Small groups in many places
Siskin
Two drinking at a puddle in the park near the Tennis Club at Vilamoura
Linnet
Common
Cirl Bunting
One female near Sagres
Corn Bunting
Large flocks up to 100 near Sagres. Singing at Pera Marsh
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